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Hooded Capelet

Sewing instructions for the Mhood3 hooded capelet — a standalone hooded cape with front clasp closure, inspired by the Hylian Hood from Legend of Zelda. Can be sewn as a single layer or with an optional liner.

Pattern Pieces

1. Cape — Cut 1 on fold (main fabric). Circular cape; arc depends on Cape Fullness option (at default 50% it's a 3/4 circle, at 70% it's roughly a 7/8 circle).
2. Hood Side — Cut 2 (main fabric).
3. Hood Center — Cut 1 (main fabric). Rectangular strip.

Materials Needed

Fabric

How much to buy — these are linear fabric measurements "at the bolt's width" (i.e. length cut off a bolt of a given width), not square meters. At a fabric store you'd ask for something like "2½ yards of 60-inch wool".

Fabric width	Linear meters	Linear feet	Linear yards (at this width)
160 cm (63") or wider	~2.0 m	~6.6 ft	~2.2 yd (round up to 2½ yd)
140–150 cm (54–59")	~3.5 m	~11.5 ft	~3.8 yd (round up to 4 yd)
110–115 cm (44–45")	~3.6 m	~11.8 ft	~4.0 yd (round up to 4 yd)

Already have a piece of fabric? Use the calculator below to check whether it's large enough — enter both dimensions in inches and it will figure out the best orientation for you.

Fabric Size Calculator

Do you have enough fabric? Enter both dimensions of your piece in inches.

Dim 1 (in)

×

Dim 2 (in)

Enter both dimensions to see whether your fabric is large enough.

Why fabric width matters — the cut-on-fold constraint: Cutting the cape on fold requires fabric ≥160 cm (63") wide, because folded fabric gives you half its width and the half-cape is ~80 cm across. Most apparel fabrics are narrower than 160 cm, so you'll instead cut the cape in two halves with a center-back seam — this is why medium and narrow fabrics need roughly twice the length.

Cape piece size: The cape itself covers roughly a 160 × 160 cm (63 × 63 in) area when unfolded (it's nearly a full disc at the default fullness). Make sure your cutting surface — floor, large table, or taped-together cardboard — is big enough before you start.

Recommended fabrics:

• Wool, wool blend, linen, heavy cotton, flannel, or fleece
• For cosplay/costume: broadcloth, suiting, or ponte knit

If you're lining the capelet: Buy the same amount of lining fabric as main fabric (see Liner Fabric Suggestions for what type).

These amounts assume the default options — 150% cape length, 70% cape fullness — at an average adult size. If you change capeLength or capeFullness in the pattern generator, or if your measurements are significantly larger, recalculate. Rough scaling rule:

• Narrow fabric (CB seam): cape linear length ≈ 2 × (hpsToWaistBack × capeLength)
• Wide fabric (on fold): cape linear length ≈ (hpsToWaistBack × capeLength) + 40 cm
• Add the hood pieces (~40 cm more if they don't nest into scraps)

Notions

• Thread: Matching color
• Clasp/closure: 1 cloak clasp, brooch, hook-and-eye, or toggle button
• Pins or clips: For holding curved pieces
• Scissors: Fabric scissors
• Sewing machine or hand needle

Optional

• Lining fabric: Same yardage as main fabric (see Liner Fabric Suggestions)
• Interfacing: Small piece for clasp reinforcement
• Bias tape or binding: For finishing the face opening (~60cm) — only needed for the unlined version

Seam Allowance

Standard seam allowance is included when the SA option is enabled in the pattern generator. If not:

• Cape seams: 10mm (1cm)
• Hood seams: 10mm (1cm)
• Cape hem: 15mm (1.5cm) for a rolled hem, or 30mm for a faced hem
• Face opening: 10mm

Cutting Instructions

1. Print the pattern at 100% scale (check the scalebox on the cape piece).
2. Cape (piece 1): Place the center back edge on the fabric fold. Cut 1 on fold. Transfer the clasp point marking.
3. Hood Side (piece 2): Cut 2 pieces (one for each side). Transfer all notch marks: center back, shoulder, and front neckline.
4. Hood Center (piece 3): Cut 1 rectangular strip. Mark the grainline (runs along the length).

Optional Liner Cutting

If making a lined capelet, cut all three pieces again from lining fabric:

1. Lining Cape: Cut 1 on fold, identical to the main cape
2. Lining Hood Side: Cut 2
3. Lining Hood Center: Cut 1

Tip: Use the same pattern pieces for both layers. The lining will be enclosed inside, so small differences in drape between fabrics won't be visible.

Cutting Tips

• The cape is a large circular piece (3/4 to full circle depending on your fullness setting) — you'll need a wide cutting surface.
• If your fabric isn't wide enough to cut the cape in one piece on the fold, add a center back seam instead (cut 2 half-capes).
• Lay out the hood pieces on remaining fabric after cutting the cape.
• If cutting a liner, cut the main fabric first, then use the same layout on the lining fabric.

Construction Steps

Step 1 Finish Raw Edges (Optional)

If your fabric frays easily:

1. Serge or overlock the curved edges of both hood side pieces.
2. Serge the long edges of the hood center strip.
3. The cape edges can be finished after assembly.

Lined version: You still need to finish raw edges on the main fabric hood pieces (the internal hood seams won't be enclosed by lining). The lining hood pieces can be serged too, but it's less critical since they won't be visible. The cape edges don't need finishing — they'll be enclosed between the two layers.

Step 2 Assemble the Hood

a) Attach center strip to first hood side:

1. Take one Hood Side piece (piece 2) and the Hood Center strip (piece 3).
2. Pin the center strip to the center seam edge of the hood side, right sides together.
3. The center strip runs from the neckline center back, up over the crown, to the front of the hood.
4. The strip is narrow (~8cm wide), so align carefully.
5. Stitch with a 10mm seam allowance.
6. Press seam toward the hood side.

b) Attach second hood side:

1. Pin the remaining Hood Side piece to the other long edge of the center strip, right sides together.
2. Match the neckline notches at both ends.
3. Stitch with a 10mm seam allowance.
4. Press seam toward the hood side.

c) Check the hood:

• Turn right side out and try it on loosely.
• The center strip should sit over the crown of your head.
• The hood should drape back behind your head in a dramatic point.

d) Optional — Assemble the lining hood:

1. Repeat steps 2a and 2b with your three lining hood pieces.
2. Press seams the same way (toward the hood sides).
3. Set the lining hood aside for now.

Step 3 Finish the Face Opening

Unlined version:

1. The front edge of the hood (face opening) runs from the neckline on each side up and around the face.
2. Fold the face opening edge under by 10mm, press, and topstitch.
3. Alternative: Apply bias binding or a narrow facing strip for a cleaner finish.
4. The face opening should frame your face with a slight curve.

Lined version — Join hood to lining at face opening:

1. Place the outer hood and lining hood right sides together, aligning the face opening edges.
2. Pin along the entire face opening from one neckline edge, up around the face, to the other neckline edge.
3. Stitch with a 10mm seam allowance along the face opening only.
4. Clip or notch the curves (every 2–3cm) so the seam lies flat when turned.
5. Turn the hood right side out through the open neckline edge. The face opening is now cleanly enclosed between the two layers.
6. Press the face opening edge, rolling the seam slightly toward the lining so it isn't visible from the outside.
7. (Optional) Understitch the lining: stitch the lining to the seam allowance 2–3mm from the seamline to prevent the lining from rolling outward.
8. Baste the outer hood and lining neckline edges together within the seam allowance — treat them as one layer from here on.

Step 4 Finish the Cape Edges

a) Front edges:

1. The two straight front edges of the cape run from the neckline down to the hem.
2. Fold under 10mm, press, fold under another 10mm for a double-fold hem.
3. Topstitch close to the inner fold.

b) Hem:

1. The curved outer hem is the longest edge.
2. For a narrow rolled hem: Fold under 5mm, press, fold again 5mm, stitch. Works well on curves.
3. For a wider hem: Fold under 15mm, easing the fullness as you go. Press and stitch.
4. Alternative: Leave the hem raw if using a non-fraying fabric like fleece or boiled wool.

Lined version — Join cape to lining (bag-lining method):

1. Place the outer cape and lining cape right sides together, aligning all edges.
2. Pin along the two front edges and the curved hem. Leave the neckline open.
3. Stitch along the front edges and hem with a 10mm seam allowance.
4. Leave a 20–25cm turning gap in the center of the hem (mark with pins so you don't forget).
5. Clip or notch the curved hem seam every 2–3cm to reduce bulk.
6. Trim the corners where the front edges meet the hem at a 45-degree angle.
7. Turn the cape right side out through the turning gap. Use a point turner or chopstick to push out the front-edge corners.
8. Press the front edges and hem, rolling the seam slightly toward the lining.
9. Do not close the turning gap yet — you'll close it after the hood is attached.

Step 5 Attach Hood to Cape

1. Pin the hood to the cape neckline, right sides together.
2. Match these points:
   • Hood center back (where the center strip meets the neckline) aligns with the cape center back fold line.
   • Hood shoulder notches align roughly with the shoulder area of the cape neckline.
   • Hood front neckline notches meet the front edges of the cape.
3. The hood neckline should distribute evenly along the cape neckline.
4. Stitch with a 10mm seam allowance.
5. Reinforce: Stitch a second row 3mm inside the first for strength (the neck seam bears weight).
6. Press the seam allowance toward the cape (downward).

Lined version: The basted hood (outer + lining treated as one layer) is attached the same way. The lining cape neckline remains open — you'll close it in the next step.

Step 6 Finish the Neck Seam

Unlined version — choose one method:

• Topstitch: Topstitch through the cape and seam allowance, 5mm below the seamline, to hold the seam flat.
• Bias binding: Enclose the raw neck seam in bias binding for a clean interior finish.
• Facing strip: Cut a bias strip ~3cm wide, stitch over the seam allowance, fold under, and hand-stitch.

Lined version — enclose the neck seam:

1. Fold the lining cape neckline edge under by 10mm and press.
2. Pin the folded lining neckline over the neck seam, covering the raw seam allowance.
3. Slipstitch (hand-sew) the folded lining edge to the neck seam, enclosing all raw edges between the two cape layers.
4. Now close the turning gap left in the hem: fold the raw edges inward and slipstitch closed, or edgestitch the entire hem for a crisp finish.
5. (Optional) To prevent the lining from shifting, tack the lining to the outer cape at the shoulder points with a few hand stitches (French tacks work well — a 1–2cm chain of thread that allows the layers to move independently while staying connected).

Step 7 Attach the Clasp

1. The clasp point is marked on the cape neckline near center front.
2. If using a cloak clasp or brooch:
   • Reinforce the fabric at the clasp point with a small square of interfacing on the wrong side.
   • Sew or pin the clasp through both front edges where they overlap.
3. If using a hook-and-eye:
   • Sew the hook on the wrong side of the overlap (outer front edge).
   • Sew the eye on the right side of the underlap (inner front edge).
4. The front overlap is designed so the cape wraps slightly at center front.

Step 8 Final Pressing

1. Press all seams flat.
2. Give the cape hem a final press.
3. If using wool, steam press for a crisp finish.
4. Avoid pressing directly on fleece or plush fabrics.

Wearing the Capelet

• The cape drapes over the shoulders with the hood hanging back.
• Pull the hood up for the dramatic Hylian silhouette.
• The clasp holds the front closed at the neckline.
• The circular cape provides full coverage and dramatic movement.

Design Options

These options can be adjusted in the pattern generator:

Option	Default	Range	Effect
Cape length	150%	80–250%	Length as % of shoulder-to-waist. 100%=waist, 150%=hip, 200%+=knee
Cape fullness	50%	50–100%	Arc angle. 50%=3/4 circle, 75%=7/8, 100%=full circle
Front overlap	8%	0–20%	How much the front edges overlap for the clasp
Neck ease	15%	5–30%	Ease at the neckline for comfort
Hood height	55%	40–70%	How tall the hood rises. 40%=fitted, 55%=dramatic, 70%=extreme
Hood depth	40%	25–60%	How far back the hood extends for the draping point
Hood center width	14%	5–20%	Width of the center panel over the crown
Hood pointiness	50%	0–100%	0%=smooth dome, 50%=moderate peak, 100%=sharp point

Fabric Suggestions

Look	Fabric	Notes
Classic fantasy	Wool or wool blend	Drapes beautifully, warm, authentic feel
Lightweight summer	Linen or cotton lawn	Cool, casual, less dramatic drape
Cosplay	Broadcloth or gabardine	Affordable, holds shape, easy to sew
Cozy casual	Fleece or sherpa	No hemming needed, very warm
Elegant	Velvet or brocade	Formal, rich look
Weatherproof	Waxed cotton or oilskin	Functional rain cloak

Liner Fabric Suggestions

If you're adding the optional liner, choose a lining that complements your main fabric:

Main Fabric	Recommended Lining	Notes
Wool / wool blend	Silk, rayon bemberg, or acetate lining	Classic pairing — slippery lining makes it easy to put on/take off
Cotton / linen	Cotton lawn or voile	Breathable, lightweight, won't trap heat
Broadcloth / gabardine	Polyester lining or cotton sateen	Affordable, smooth interior for costumes
Fleece	Anti-pill fleece or flannel	Adds warmth; skip if already very warm
Velvet / brocade	Silk charmeuse or satin	Luxurious feel, prevents catching on clothes

Tips for choosing liner fabric:

• The lining should be equal or lighter weight than the main fabric to avoid adding bulk.
• A slippery lining (satin, bemberg) is ideal — the cape slides easily over your clothes.
• For a contrast lining (e.g., red satin inside a black wool cloak), test that the color doesn't show through.
• Pre-wash both fabrics the same way before cutting to avoid differential shrinkage.

Tips

• Pressing curved hems: Use a tailor's ham or sleeve roll to press the curved cape hem without distortion.
• Easing the cape hem: The outer hem is much longer than the inner neckline. Take your time, easing the fullness gradually.
• Hood drape: The hood drapes behind the head in a tall point when down, and covers the head dramatically when up. If it's too floppy, reduce hood height to 40–45%.
• Lining: The optional liner is integrated into the construction steps — look for "Lined version" notes at each stage.
• No-sew fleece version: If using fleece, you can skip all hemming. Just cut and assemble the seams.

Care Instructions

• Follow the care instructions for your specific fabric.
• Most wool cloaks should be dry-cleaned or hand-washed in cold water.
• Cotton and linen can be machine washed on gentle cycle.
• Fleece can be machine washed and tumble dried on low.
• Hang to dry when possible to maintain drape.
• Store on a padded hanger to prevent shoulder creases.