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Vinyl Bodysuit

Sewing instructions for the Sucar vinyl/pleather bodysuit — a fitted bodysuit designed for non-stretch vinyl, pleather, or faux leather fabric. Features a deep V-neckline, high-cut legs, waist cutouts, mandatory back zipper closure, and optional bat wing, tail, and choker accessories.

Pattern Pieces

  1. Front — Cut 1 on fold (or cut 2 if not on fold)
  2. Back — Cut 2 (always — center-back seam required for zipper)
  3. Crotch Gusset — Cut 1 on fold
  4. Shoulder Strap — Cut 2
  5. Choker (optional) — Cut 1
  6. Bat Wing (optional) — Cut 2
  7. Tail (optional) — Cut 2

Materials Needed

Fabric

Fabric widthBodysuit (linear)With accessories (linear)
150 cm (60")~1.5 m (~1.7 yd)~2.0 m (~2.2 yd)
110–115 cm (44–45")~2.0 m (~2.2 yd)~2.5 m (~2.8 yd)

Recommended fabrics:

Important: This pattern is designed for non-stretch or minimal-stretch materials. Ease is built into the pattern. Do not use 4-way stretch fabrics — use the Desirae pattern instead for stretch materials.

Tips for vinyl/pleather:

Notions

Optional Notions

Seam Allowance

The pattern includes 15mm seam allowance when the SA option is enabled. This wider allowance is intentional for vinyl:

Note: Vinyl seam allowances cannot be pressed open with an iron. You must either topstitch them flat, glue them open, or grade and topstitch to one side.

Cutting Instructions

  1. Print the pattern at 100% scale (verify with the scalebox on the front piece). The page grid labels (A1, B1, etc.) help you tile and assemble printed pages.
  2. Do NOT pin pattern pieces to vinyl. Use pattern weights, tape, or trace with a chalk marker.
  3. Front (piece 1): Place the center front edge on the fabric fold. Cut 1 on fold. If not using fold, cut 2 mirror pieces. Mark the waist position.
  4. Back (piece 2): Cut 2 pieces (mirror). Transfer the zipper marking (dashed line) and the zipper end notch. Transfer the waist notch at center back.
  5. Crotch Gusset (piece 3): Cut 1 on fold. Mark the grainline.
  6. Shoulder Strap (piece 4): Cut 2. Mark the fold line down the center.
  7. Choker (piece 5): If included, cut 1. Mark the fold line and the closure overlap line.
  8. Bat Wing (piece 6): If included, cut 2 (one left, one right). Mark the grainline.
  9. Tail (piece 7): If included, cut 2 identical pieces. Mark the grainline.

Cutting Tips

Construction Steps

Step 1 Prepare Seams

Vinyl does not need edge finishing (no fraying). However:

  1. Grade seam allowances where multiple layers meet (trim the inner layer to 8mm, leave outer at 15mm)
  2. Have fabric glue or double-sided basting tape ready for holding seams
Test first: Sew a test seam on scrap vinyl with your planned stitch length (3.0–3.5mm), needle, and thread. Vinyl cannot be un-sewn without leaving visible holes.

Step 2 Sew the Center-Back Seam (Below Zipper)

  1. Place the two back pieces right sides together
  2. Mark the zipper endpoint (the notch transferred from the pattern)
  3. Stitch the center-back seam from the crotch up to the zipper endpoint only
  4. Use clips to hold the seam — do not pin
  5. Stitch at 15mm seam allowance
  6. Open the seam flat and topstitch both sides 2–3mm from the seam, or glue the seam allowances open

Step 3 Install the Back Zipper

  1. The zipper opening runs from the back neckline down to the zipper endpoint notch
  2. Invisible zipper method (recommended for vinyl):
    • Open the zipper and place it face-down on the right side of one back edge
    • Align the zipper tape edge with the seam allowance edge
    • Use an invisible zipper foot to stitch close to the coil
    • Repeat for the other side
    • Close the zipper and stitch the short gap between the zipper end and the seam below
  3. Exposed zipper method (decorative):
    • Fold back 15mm on each center-back edge and glue/tape flat
    • Place the closed zipper face-up underneath the folded edges
    • Topstitch each side 5–8mm from the fold, through the zipper tape
    • This creates a visible zipper that looks intentional on vinyl
  4. Install a hook-and-eye or snap at the top of the zipper to prevent the slider from slipping

Step 4 Join Front to Back at Side Seams

  1. Place front and back right sides together
  2. Align at the following points:
    • Above the cutout: Match from the shoulder strap area down to the cutout top
    • Below the cutout: Match from the cutout bottom down through the hip to the leg opening
  3. Leave the cutout section open — this is the waist cutout window
  4. Stitch the side seams at 15mm
  5. Topstitch the side seams from the right side, 2–3mm from the seam
Important: The cutout edges are finished edges — they are not sewn to anything. If desired, apply a thin strip of bias tape or fold and glue the cutout edges for a cleaner finish.

Step 5 Sew the Shoulder Straps

  1. Fold each strap piece in half along the marked fold line, wrong sides together
  2. Stitch along the long open edge at 15mm
  3. Turn right side out (or leave as a flat-fold strap and topstitch both long edges)
  4. Attach the straps:
    • Pin/clip the raw ends between the front and back pieces at the shoulder
    • Or topstitch them onto the front and back after assembly
  5. Try on for length — vinyl straps should sit snugly but not dig in

Step 6 Attach the Crotch Gusset

  1. Unfold the gusset to its full width
  2. Align one long edge of the gusset with the front crotch scoop (the curved seam at the bottom of the front piece)
  3. Clip together, matching the center of the gusset to the center front crotch point
  4. Stitch at 15mm
  5. Repeat on the other long edge, attaching to the back crotch scoop
  6. The gusset creates the bridge between front and back at the crotch
  7. Topstitch both gusset seams

Step 7 Sew the Leg Openings (Optional Finishing)

The leg openings are cut edges. For vinyl, options include:

  1. Leave raw: Vinyl doesn’t fray, so this is perfectly acceptable. The cut edge gives a clean modern look.
  2. Fold and topstitch: Fold the edge under 5–8mm and topstitch. Difficult on tight curves — clip the seam allowance first.
  3. Bind with bias tape: Apply stretch or faux-leather bias binding for a professional finish.

Step 8 Finish the V-Neckline and Back Neckline

  1. V-neckline (front): Leave raw, or fold under 5mm and topstitch. A narrow bias binding also works well.
  2. Back neckline: The back neckline integrates with the zipper. Fold the neckline edge under and topstitch, enclosing the top of the zipper tape.

Step 9 Assemble the Choker (Optional)

  1. Fold the choker in half along the fold line, wrong sides together
  2. Topstitch along all edges, 2–3mm from the edge
  3. Install a snap fastener or hook-and-eye at the closure overlap (marked on the pattern)
  4. The choker should fit snugly around the neck — vinyl does not stretch, so the full neck circumference is used

Step 10 Assemble the Wings (Optional)

  1. Each wing is a single layer (cut 2)
  2. Options for finishing:
    • Single layer: Leave raw-edged for a stiff, dramatic look. Vinyl holds its shape well.
    • Doubled: Cut 4 wing pieces instead of 2. Sew pairs right sides together, leaving the base open. Turn and topstitch.
  3. Attach wings to the back of the bodysuit at the shoulder blade area:
    • Hand-stitch or rivet through both layers
    • Or attach with snaps so they’re removable
  4. For more dramatic wings, insert wire (millinery wire or craft wire) along the leading edge before closing

Step 11 Assemble the Tail (Optional)

  1. Place the two tail pieces right sides together
  2. Stitch along both long curved edges and around the arrow-tip at the bottom, leaving the top (base) open
  3. Turn right side out — use a long dowel or knitting needle to push out the narrow tip
  4. Stuff lightly with polyester fiberfill (the tail should be soft but hold its shape)
  5. Attach the open base to the center back of the bodysuit at the waistline:
    • Hand-stitch or topstitch across the base
    • Or attach with snaps for removability

Step 12 Final Checks

  1. Try on the bodysuit (open the back zipper fully to step in)
  2. Check fit at bust, waist, hips — vinyl should not pull or gap
  3. If the bodysuit is too tight at any point, let out the side seams (this is why 15mm SA is used)
  4. Check that the zipper operates smoothly
  5. Verify the straps are the correct length — adjust by re-stitching at the shoulder
  6. Sit down to check center seam comfort and gusset position

Design Options

These options can be adjusted in the pattern generator:

OptionDefaultRangeEffect
Bust ease5%0–15%Room at the bust. 5% is snug; increase for comfort
Waist ease3%0–10%Room at the waist
Hip ease5%0–15%Room at the hips
Seat ease5%0–15%Room at the seat/buttocks
Vertical ease2%0–8%Lengthwise ease through the torso
Zipper length70%50–100%How far down the back the zipper extends
V-neckline depth95%50–100%How deep the V plunges (100% = waist)
Neckline width70%30–100%How wide the V opens at the shoulders
Leg opening height75%30–95%How high the leg cut rises
Leg opening curve60%20–90%Shape of the leg opening curve
Cutout size80%0–80%Waist cutout size (0% = no cutouts)
Cutout position20%20–80%Shifts cutouts up or down
Back neck depth60%10–70%How low the back neckline scoops
Strap width5%2–15%Width of the shoulder straps
Wing size80%40–150%Overall wing size
Wing pointiness60%20–100%How sharp the wing scallops are
Tail length70%30–120%Length of the tail
Tail curve50%10–90%How much the tail curves
Choker width30%10–80%Width of the choker band
Front on foldYesYes/NoCut front on fold or as two pieces

Fabric Suggestions

LookFabricNotes
Classic vinylPVC vinyl, 0.5–0.8mmGlossy, stiff, dramatic. Most authentic
Soft pleatherPolyurethane faux leatherSofter hand, easier to sew, less glossy
Patent leatherPatent vinylUltra-glossy, very slick surface
Wet-lookWet-look lycra (low stretch)Slight give for comfort, shiny finish
Matte leatherMatte pleather or ultrasuedeSophisticated, less costume-like
Two-toneMix vinyl + mesh panelsUse mesh/sheer for wing inserts

Tips

Care Instructions